John, Thanks for the kind words. It’s a great question that is fairly easy to answer. If you’re using this as a jobsite saw, the fence is fine. When I say that I’m talking about using it for basic ripping operations, framing materials, sheet goods, even trim. But if you want to use it as a mobile workshop saw that you want to do higher precision work with, then I’d say it’s an issue. There are a lot of guys looking for a saw for their garage, or shop with limited space, and these are great saws, but not as accurate as a full size cabinet saw.

Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

V/r
John

Should mention I am using the newer SawStop JSS Pro.

Bengt, to square the fence just pull it down toward you and then lock. As to flexing, as Rob R said it may flex if you bump it hard with large sheet goods. For me these minor annoyances don’t override the safety feature.

For dado’s you will also need the table insert.

To allow the saw safety system to work correctly with dado sets, you have to have the right blades. Your pictures show the Dewalt set. If you look at most of the Freud sets, you will see a pronounced hump behind the cutting edge. This is a feed limiting European safety design (I think it’s a requirement to have a feed limiting feature of some sort, but not sure and it doesn’t matter in the US). Sawstop sent out a letter to its dealers describing the problem (I suspect other Europe based brands use a similar design). The hump either slows down the energy absorption (by not cutting into the aluminum as fast) or slows down the over center trip point by softening the ‘bang’ (energy transfer or recoil).

Recently, Feud started introducing sets that are ground with a curved back in a more traditional design. The Forrest blades never had that and are on the ‘good’ list from Sawstop. Others undoubtedly will work as well. Something to be aware of.

Thanks!